Queen of the Ionian Sea, Corfu is where Odysseus was shipwrecked in Homer’s Odyssey, and where Jason and his Argonauts sought refuge. It’s ruggedly handsome and incredibly green, Gerald Durrell’s ‘Garden of the Gods’. But it’s also extremely well-loved, and visitors come in droves to lounge on its lovely beaches and dip in its delicious seas. Its popularity could be enough to put you off. Luckily, there’s another option!
The Corfu Trail meanders up the island from its southern tip to the north coast cove. Along the trail’s 180 or so kilometres, it avoids the busiest, most built-up spots, instead sticking to the wilder west coast, the inland hills and valleys, and the northern mountains in an attempt to rediscover the island’s soul. Opened 25 years ago, the trail has revived hidden, magical footways long fallen out of use.
As far as I’m concerned, it is THE way to see the island. Every day was an unfurling of simple yet spectacular pleasures. Invariably, I’d start with a swim. Water that crisp, clear and blue was hard to resist, and by travelling off-season – as walkers here must do to avoid summer’s inferno – I’d have a whole beach to myself. Then I’d head back for a hearty breakfast: bread, cheese and tomatoes bursting with freshness, and thick, unctuous yoghurt.
Finally, I'd head off under warm, blue skies, squeezing between streets of houses in saffrons, creams and pinks before pushing into the countryside beyond. I’d navigate between crumbling drystone walls beloved of lizards, herbs and wildflowers in bright, aromatic profusion. I’d climb leaf-littered paths, walk quiet roads and tramp soft, golden sand. And everywhere there were olive groves: some neat, some forgotten, some bearing the last of the season’s fruit, some dating back to the Venetians who planted them 400 years ago, and one twisted elder that was 1,500 years old.
There were also always surprises. Like the moment, hot and thirsty in the Ropa Valley, that I happened upon the Theotaky wine estate and stopped for a zesty Robola in the shade of its blooming black locust trees. Or the welcome I received from the nuns at the holy monastery of Jesus Christ Pantokrator in Agios Athanasios, who gave me a tour of their exquisite icons – many painted by the community themselves – before plying me with Turkish delight. Or, the taste of never-before-tried fig pie ice cream, which I devoured whilst looking down to the turquoise waters of popular Palaiokastritsa without encountering its crowds.
Yes, this was ‘touristy’ Corfu, but walking gave it a deliciously different flavour.
If you'd like to explore the Corfu Trail, discover our collection of Corfu itineraries today; we offer self-guided experiences from eight to 15 days on the trail. For more information, contact our friendly team.
