In the Footsteps of an Explorer

'First published in the May 2007 issue of Go Active magazine'

Deep in Canada's British Columbia, the wilderness is as untouched as it was when the explorer, Alexander Mackenzie, first crossed the entire North American continent. Jo Newton follows in his footsteps...

Born in Scotland in 1762, Alexander Mackenzie was a dreamer. After emigrating to America, aged 10, Mackenzie grew up to become a fur-trader. Mackenzie's ambition was to find an alternative trading route in the wake of the American Revolution, from Montreal to the Northwest Pacific coast. In 1789 Mackenzie began probing the Canadian interior, taking with him a support team and a Native Indian chief as a guide. By 1793 Mackenzie had finally reached his destination, called Bella Coola, on the Pacific coast. In doing so, Mackenzie became the first European to reach the Pacific by crossing Canada. We are tracing the footsteps of part of Mackenzie's epic journey. A group of six from the UK plus three Canadians, we range in age from 24 to 56, and can count a teacher, financial adviser and retiree among us. We are travelling to get a taste of life off-the-beaten-track in western Canada.

On the road by 6.15 am, with the sun rising, we avoid the rush of the public holiday traffic of RVs (recreational vehicles). Our drive north from Vancouver follows the Sea to Sky highway to Whistler, host of the 2010 Winter Olympics. Mountains tumble down to the ocean, a string of islands lies out to the west.

Over halfway through our eight-hour transfer from Vancouver airport, we head west through the Chilcotin Plateau along the Freedom Highway. In 1953, with no support from the government, the locals took it into their own hands to complete the road linking the coastal community with the interior, but the area remains a wild frontier. Eagle's Nest Resort is set in the heart of the Chilcotin Plateau, where we set up residence in rustic cabins by the lake. The silver service dinner is in formal surroundings in the main house.

By mid-morning we are at the horse enclosure to meet the horse guides, and the place is a hive of activity. The horse packers, who are in charge of the horses and packing their loads of supplies for our journey, organise our kit. We will travel on foot with the horse packers following us with the horses, dogs and guns. I have long been dreaming of the North American Wild West, and I feel anticipation for the journey ahead.

Our guides are the Dorsey family, legendary in these parts for their prowess in the saddle, and descendants of both Native Indians and the early pioneering families. 'Utilising the expertise and knowledge of local people adds to the unique experience, while giving something back to the fragile local economy,' says 'Blue', the man behind the trail concept. From my point of view, real cowboys definitely add flavour to the adventure.

Hiking in grizzly country

The first hike is a leisurely four hours into our first camping spot, called Lester's Camp. The trail is boggy underfoot. Paul, one of the horse packers, joins us along the trail with his horse in tow, rifle slung over the saddle. This is grizzly territory and according to a large track that Paul spots, there is a three-and-a-half-metre tall bear in the area.

Sheltered by Ponderosa pines, with a view of a mountain stream flowing through the alpine meadows, the camp site is idyllic. Large tarpaulins are set up around a roaring fire. Dinner comprises huge steaks, salad and generous helpings of cake. All the meals have been pre-prepared and frozen, carried in cool-boxes made from cowhide. The meals are defrosted and cooked on a large grate over an open fire in true cowboy fashion.

Talk around the fire turns to three-and-a-half-metre bears. Paul tells the story of the grizzly, more than four metres tall, that was killed in Alaska recently. Apparently there has been no recorded attack on a group of six or more, but it's suggested that we hold hands tomorrow. A night at Lester's Camp means the chance to climb Dome Mountain the next day, which should take about five hours at a steady pace. With a lazy start to the morning, we enjoy walking through an abundance of flowers before gaining fantastic views from the mountain top.

On the Mackenzie trail

Our next camp is in Mackenzie Valley. The lush, grassy meadows, a cool mountain river, horses grazing and the fiery colours of the Rainbow Mountains make it a stunning setting. We all take a dip in the river to cleanse away the day's hike. The next day is our chance to walk the 12km trail to the top of Mount Mackenzie. The views are breathtaking, from the spectacular colours of the Rainbow Mountains, the vast open plains to the north, to the craggy, snow-capped peaks of the Coast Mountains. From Mackenzie Valley we travel over Mackenzie Pass. Small piles of stones, known as 'cairns', mark the way. The Mackenzie trail, as it is commonly known, follows one of a number of ancient trading routes used by interior native peoples to trade with the coastal villages.

Destination wilderness

From Mackenzie Pass, alpine meadows and lakes lie before us. Our last night up on the plateau is spent by Sikatapa Lake. Sitting by the fire, we look across the water to Mount Stupendous, towering above the Bella Coola Valley. This is a sign that we are close to our destination.

The trail meanders through meadows and lakes as we descend into the valley. The forest is lush with thick moss hanging from the branches. As the undergrowth thickens and swallows the trail, I remember that this is the 'gateway to the Great Bear Rainforest'. My spine tingles.

The valley of Bella Coola is a truly wild place and the journey to get there was something else. In 1793 Alexander Mackenzie arrived in this remote valley, searching for his route to the coast. It is hard to imagine how Mackenzie would have felt. Something tells me it is still as wild and beautiful as it was all those years ago.

Click here for details of the Mackenzie Trail itinerary.